智利復活節島 Chile Easter Island (連載中)

在海邊屹立千年的神秘石像

旅程重點 Highlights

- 摩艾石像 - 人生必定要看一次的景點... 對, 所有人來復活節島, 都只為了看它們

- Moai - Once in a life time kind of tourist spot... yes, all visitors came for them

行程路線 Itinerary & 基本資料 Basic Info

(上一站為智利蓬塔阿雷納斯, 此前行程詳見巴塔哥尼亞篇)

(We depart from Punta Arenas airport of Chile, refer to the Patagonia post)

進入 Flying into/ 離開 Departing from: Santiago

(1) Easter Island [3 Days]

(2) Santiago [1 Days]

Tips: 3 days is the standard time require to visit all sites, less is not enough and more may start to feel bored. It all depends on the flight, since the only way to get there is by flight from Santiago. Certain days of the week are MUCH cheaper (e.g. Monday), and the price can be double or triple on the other days of the same week, so you will have to plan the number of days accordingly. There are other tricks to book cheaper flights, feel free to contact me to for more tips.

• 衣: 作為太平洋中心的小島, 復活節島氣候溫和, 基本上短袖即可 Wear: Since the island is located in the ocean and at a great distance from the continents, the climate of Easter Island is benign throughout the year, basically one layer with short sleeves are good.

• 食: 島上有許多餐廳, 集中在市中心, 食物都要輸入, 所以種類有限, 海鮮是非吃不可, 超市裏的食材超貴, 所以索性去餐廳好了; 本地新鮮食材主要是吞拿魚(當地語言: kahi) , 龍蝦, 八爪魚, 還有幾種魚類和貝殼類; 水果看季節, 菠蘿, 木瓜, 芒果和番石榴算是當地特產 Eat: Variety is relatively limited, as most of the food are imported, restaurants are mostly located in the downtown area. Seafood is the must try. Grocery is expensive, so you might as well just go to a restaurant. Tuna is the most well known local fish and is highly recommended. Other local marine products include lobster, octopus and several species of fishes and shellfishes.

• 住: 島上基本上到處都是酒店, 質素十分參差, 便宜的"酒店"其實就是旅館, 所以要小心選擇, 我經過一輪資料搜集後選了一間價錢不貴又十分漂亮的, 距離機場和市中心都不遠 Stay: There are hotels everywhere, some budget ones are basically hostels despite they call themselves "hotel", therefore it requires some research to get the best deal. We picked a good one with reasonable price, which is in the middle of airport and downtown, thus very convenient. Tips: Go for the newer ones which is not popular enough to charge a high price, those usually offer the greatest value. Contact me for more tips.

• 行: 島上自己開車是最好選擇, 市中心有一條街上都是租車, 在市內可以坐計程車, 但去景點的話會很貴, 而且沒有車回來 (除非你讓司機在那裏等, 但那就更貴), 去景點只能參加旅遊團, 和一堆人擠在一起而且有各種時間限制, 所以並不推薦, 自行車也是一個選擇,但若你選擇騎自行車去遠的景點的話...... 我只能說你的體能應該不錯 Transportation: Rent a car is by far the best option, and there are a number of car rental on one of the streets in down town. Flat rate taxi can be used in the downtown area, but is not recommended as a one-way trip to a popular moai site outside of town because its pricy and there are no taxi to come back (unless you make the taxi to wait for you, or to return at a specified time, which is even more pricy). Joining tour is the only other option but there are a lot of restrictions and all the pictures you take will be have your tour group in the background. Cycling is also an option, but if you are able to do that for the sites further out... I am gonna say you are a pretty good athlete. Tips: If you can drive manual car then you get tons of option, and can even bargain for some good deals (but worst cars). There is no car insurance so credit card is a must and you need to be careful when you drive otherwise you will get a huge credit car bill.

Day 1 Ahu Nau Nau - Ovahe - Papa Vaka - Poike - Ahu Tongariku - Rano Raraku - Ahu Ko Te Riku

摩艾石像是大約 500 至 800 年前由復活節島上的土著雕刻的一件過人形雕像。他們的頭大得幾乎

和身體一樣大小, 最高的高達10米。以目前的認知，摩艾石像被就是神化了的祖先。雕刻在大型石像採石場Rano Raraku進行，然後運往島上的四周，並放置在稱為 ahu 的石頭平台上。大多數雕像都照看著他們氏族的土地。由於當時的技術有限，如何製作和運輸近千尊雕像一直是一個謎，令復活節島成為許多人眼中“一生必須去一次”的頂級旅遊勝地。

Moai are monolithic human-look statutes carved by the Rapa Nui locals on Easter Island, around 500 to 800 years ago. They have overly large heads, almost as big as their bodies and was as tall as 10m. The moai are believed to represent the living faces of deified ancestors. There were carved at at Rano Raraku, the main moai quarry, then transported around the island's perimeter, and were placed on stone platforms called ahu. Most of the statues gazed inland across their clan lands. The production and transportation of almost a thousand statues is considered a mystery given the limited techonology at that time, making Easter Island a popluar "you need to go once in life" kinda of top tourist spot.

我們的第一站是 Ahu Nau Nau，它位於 一個風平浪靜的 海灘Anakena的岸邊。 Anakena 被懷疑是島上最先有人居住的地方之一。這個ahu的第一階段建造可能在900年前已開始。它們是島上保存得最完整的雕像，因為這些雕像在島上的部落爭奪戰中被撞倒後長埋在沙灘中，因此免受侵蝕。時至今日，平台上有七尊雕像，左首四尊基本完整無缺，頂部戴著有由Puna Pau採石場的火山石製成的紅色帽子pukao。這是僅有的三個可以看到戴著紅色帽子的moai 的地點之一。

Our first stop was Ahu Nau Nau, which is located at the quiet shore of Anakena Beach. Anakena was suspected to be one of the oldest inhabited places on the island. The very first phas of the construction in this ahu was possibly started in 900 years ago. It consist of the best preserved statues on the island, because the statues were buried in the sand on the beach, and thus protected from erosion, after being knocked down during the clashes between the various clans of the island. In current days, the ahu consists of seven statues, with the first four from the left are basically intact and are crowned with pukao, which is made by volcanic scoria from the quarry of Puna Pau. This is one of the only three locations that you can find moai with pukao.

Tips: The moai face south east, so if you visit in a summer (December) morning, they will be facing the sun and you get a better photo.

Ovahe 位於 Anakena 海灘以南， 被微紅色的火山懸崖所包圍，海水是綠松石色，沙子是粉紅色的，因為混合了紅色的火山渣和被侵蝕的白色珊瑚。古代的原住民曾居住此處，因為並不容易找到，所以成為了沒被騷擾的隱世秘境。

Ovahe is located just a little south of Anakena beach. The cove is surrounded by cliffs of reddish volcanic origin, sea is turquoise and sand is pink with mixture of red volcanic slag and eroded white coral. The ancient natives used to live here, since its not easy to find, its relatively untouched.

我們的下一站是Papa Vaka，在拉帕努伊語中是“石頭”和“獨木舟”的意思。在這裏，我們可以看到復活節島上最大的岩畫。岩畫顧名思義就是在岩石畫畫。這個遺址裏的許多塊岩上畫有不同的捕魚用具，譬如獨木舟 (vaka)、魚鉤 (mangai) 和其他在古代用於取得海洋資源的基本工具。你能在右方的圖片中找到一隻章魚（heke）嗎？

Our next stop was Papa Vaka, which means “stone” and “canoe” in Rapanui language. In here we can see a number of the largest petroglyphs on Easter Island. Petroglyphs are incisions in rock. The are a number of rocks in this archaeological complex, the incisions feature marine figures, such as canoes (vaka), fish hooks (mangai) and fundamental tools in the antiquity for the control of the marine resources. Can you find an octopus (heke) in the picture on the right?

Tips: We visit this location in the afternoon and it was too early, as the sun made it hard to observe the figures. The best timing for a visit is early morning of at dusk where the softer light allows better appreciation of the figures.

Poike是構成復活節島的三個主要死火山之一。在海拔370米的山頂可將全島全景盡收眼底。然而，因為沒有路徑，上山非常困難，因此不建議非遠足愛好者登山。

Poike is one of the three main extinct volcanoes that form Easter Island. At the top, which is 370m above sea level, you can have a panoramic view of the whole island. The hike, however, is very difficult without hiking path, so its not recommended for non hiking fans.

Tips: The route shown on the map is covered by grasses of knee-height. Don't trust the map.

土沿路繼續過去，下一站是 Ahu Tongariki。這是復活節島上最大型的ahu，也是這次旅行的重點。這裏曾經是拉帕努伊人東部聯盟Hotu-iti部落首府的地標。內戰期間，摩艾石像被推倒，隨後在 1960 年的地震中，被海嘯席捲至內陸。後來被修復，目前有15 座摩艾石像，右邊第二個石像戴著帽子，是全島三處可以看pukao的地方之一，不過這頂帽子遠不及Ahu Nau Nau 所見的完整和大；右邊第五個石像是島上有史以來最重的摩艾石像，重達 86 噸，和其他石像比起鶴立雞群，就像NBA球員姚明站在人群之中。

Next one on route is Ahu Tongariki. This is the largest ahu on Easter Island and the highlight of the trip. The ahu was once the icon of the capital of the Hotu-iti clan, the eastern confederation of the Rapa Nui people. The moai were toppled during civil wars, and

subsequently swept inland by a tsunami caused by an earthquake in 1960. It has since been restored and has 15 moai, including the heaviest ever erected on the island, weighted at 86 tons, which look like a NBA player standing among others. This is also one of the only three locations that you can find moai with pukao, standing second from the right.

Tips: They face northwest, make sure you schedule your visit in the afternoon for good photos. You can also visit for sunrise as the sun will come out right behind them.

我看到這排石像，突然想起少林寺的木人巷，便借moai來隨便練了一下我那踏雪無痕、水上飄、草上飛的凌波微步輕功，請注意遊客不能觸摸石像，所以除非你的輕功練到我這凌空跨步的地步，否則不要亂試！

These stone statues reminded me of the obstacle run in Olympic, so I used these moai for my Olympic 400m hurdle sprint practice. Please note that tourists are not allow to touch the moai, so unless you are an established Olympian, I suggest you not to try it!

在二百米外的入口處，有一個單獨的石像，它叫"Traveling Moai"，據說它曾經到過日本展出，

因而得名，看到它時, 我感覺到一種莫名其妙的孤獨。一個人離開大隊獨上路, 應該很不容易。

The "Traveling Moai" is located at the entrance of the archaeological site of the Ahu Tongariki. It's standing alone upright on the grass and not on an ahu, separated from the 15 Moai by the sea. In 1982 it was shipped to Japan to participate in an exhibition in the city of Osaka, and got its name after coming back. It was also used in an experiment to demonstrate how the satues was transported hundreds years ago.

從Ahu Tongariki走出來, 對面就是另一個重要景點Rano Raraku。Rano Raraku 是死火山 Terevaka 上的一個火山口，由固化的火山灰形成。這裏曾是一個採石場，歷時500 年之久，島上約 95% 的摩艾石是在這裏取石雕刻。至今仍有近900 座摩艾石像被遺留在Rano Raraku，其中一些半身被埋在土中，只露出頭臉，另外一還未完，當中最大的摩艾石像高度為 21.6米，重 270噸，是曾完成過的最大摩艾石像的兩倍。這是一個當之無愧的世界遺產，因為這個地方基本上是一個摩艾設計和技術發展的天然記錄片，許多曾出現在電影中的moai形像也是出自此處，你認得嗎？

Coming out from Ahu Tongariki, another important attraction, Rano Raraku, is located right down the road. Rano Raraku is a volcanic crater on the extinct volcano Terevaka, formed of consolidated volcanic ash. It was a quarry for about 500 years and supplied the stone for carving of about 95% of the moai on the island. Almost 900 moai remain at Rano Raraku till now, some are half-buried, including some of which are buried to their shoulders in the spoil from the quarry, and some are left "under construction", including the largest attempted moai at 21.6m in height and 270 tons in weight, almost doubled any moai ever completed. It is a well deserved World Heritage Site, as it is basically a visual record of moai design and technological innovation and also supplied some of the most famous moai images that you had seen in movies, do you recognize them?

右圖中這個特別的摩艾石像在復活節島上很有名，叫 Tukuturi。它的鬍鬚和跪姿使它與別不同，這種奇特的姿勢被稱為tuku turi。在一個叫riu的節日裏，男人和女人會以這姿勢合唱，而這姿勢被命名為tuku riu。後傾身軀和抬起的頭證明它代表了一個riu歌手。 Tukuturi由來自Puna Pau 的紅色礦渣雕刻而成，但不知何故位於這個採石場裏。它是在常見的摩艾石像停止生產後才雕成的，可能是史上最後一個摩艾石像。圖片背景中最遠的山坡正是我們爬過的Poike，你能在圖片中找到 Ahu Tongariki 嗎？在下圖中又找到一個未完成的摩艾嗎？

This special moai on the right is well known on

Easter Island named Tukuturi. Its beard and kneeling posture distinguish it from other moai. The peculiar posture is called Tuku Turi. It is name after the posture called Tuku Riu, where men and women formed the chorus of the festivals called Riu. The backward inclination of the trunk and the raised head indicated that it represents a Riu singer. Tukuturi is made of red scoria from Puna Pau, but somehow located in Rano Raraku, the tuff quarry. It was made after the production of classic moai had ceased and is possibly the last moai ever made. The slope in the far end in the background of the picture is actually with Poike that we climbed. Can you find Ahu Tongariki in the picture? Can you an "still under construction" moai from below?

最後一站是看日落，日落在八時左右，所以我們算好時間，七時吃晚飯，我們在眾多餐廳中找到一間性價比最好的之一，叫Haka Honu餐廳。我們要了一碟是海鮮，當中有吞拿魚, 蝦和魷魚，因為不想兩碟海鮮，另一碟便要了一份牛扒，還點了一個很好喝木瓜奶昔。餐廳的位置不是市中心，但反而可以一邊吃一邊享受無敵海景！

Our plan was to see the sunset, which was at around 8pm, so we got dinner at 7pm. We picked a restaurant among the top in value of money spent. We ordered a seafood dish with tuna, shrimp and squid, as well as a steak. Papaya milkshake is the icing on the cake! The restaurant was not located in core downtown, however we did get an awesome sea view to be served with the food.

Tips: Restaurants not located core downtown offer better value (food + view per price).

島上看日落最佳的地方，沒有之一， 是Tahai石像群. Tahai 石像群包括三個主要的Ahu, 從北到南順序為Ahu Ko Te Riku、Ahu Tahai 和 Vai Ure。 Ahu Ko Te Riku 是全島唯一有眼睛的摩艾石像。眼窩由白珊瑚雕刻而成，瞳孔由黑曜石製成。然而，它目前戴的帽並不是原本的，因為原本的帽子後來被用來雕刻附近發現的基督教十字架。Ahu Tahai是一個單獨的摩艾，是三者中最古老的，因此侵蝕十分嚴重。 Ahu Vai Uri在當地語言中意為深綠色的海水，比 Ahu Tahi大約晚了500 年，而這它正前方的田野正是我們欣賞日落美景的地方。這天因為多雲，所以日落並不特別漂亮，所以我們決定明天再來。

The best location to view sunset is the complex of Tahai. Tahai comprises three principal ahu from north to south: Ahu Ko Te Riku, Ahu Tahai, and Vai Ure. Ahu Ko Te Riku is the only moai on the whole island that has eyes. Eyes sockets were carved with white coral and pupils were made of obsidian. The pukao hat, however, was not original, as the original pukao was later used to carve the Christian cross found nearby. Ahu Tahai is a single Moai, which is the oldest platform among the three and is very eroded. The Ahu Vai Uri, meant dark green water in local language, was carved some 500 years later than Ahu Tahi, and the field in front of this ahu was where we enjoy the sunset view.

The sunset was not particularly amazing because of the clouds, so we decided to come back tomorrow.

Day 2 Ahu Tongariki -

第二天八時許, 我們回到了Ahu Tongariki 看日出, 曙光在摩艾之間出現。同一個地點，看到的景象和昨天相比簡直是天淵之別。

First thing in the morning of next day, we went back to Ahu Tongariki to watch the sunrise. The sun rised between the moai, what a contrast with the view we saw yesterday!

我們回去吃早餐，然後出發前往今天的第一站 Vinapu 。這裡有島上最大的兩座 ahu，分別是Ahu Tahira和Ahu Vinapu。它們以玄武岩建造的，厲害之處在於這些岩板拼合得非常精準，如下圖所見，石與石之間天衣無縫， 就像一堵石牆，顯示了當時爐火純青的砌石技術。有研究說這些砌石技術和秘魯的印加皇朝有所關連，這樣我想起天空之城馬丘比丘（請見秘魯旅程）在這個地方也有摩艾和紅色帽子pukao的碎片。

We headed back for breakfast and started our day at Vinapu, which consist of two of the largest ahu on the island, Ahu Vinapu and Ahu Tahira. They were built by slabs of basalts which were very precisely fitted like a rock wall, showing the precision of the extraordinary stonemasonry of the time, as shown in the picture below. The accurately fitted stone masonry were linked to those in Inca Empire of Peru, reminded me of Machu Picchu (Refer to my Peru trip). Pieces of moai and pukao were found on the site as well.

由Vinapu 開車上山，便到了Rano Kau。Rano Kau是一座20萬年前由更新世玄武岩熔岩流形成的火山，高300米。 現今成為了一個火山口湖，湖底和四周山脊的最高點差距200米。 火山錐三面環海，大部分被侵蝕後形成高聳的海崖。

We then drove up the mountain to Rano Kau, which is a volcano formed of basaltic lava flows 200000 years ago in the Pleistocene with a height of 300m. Now it has a crater lake of 200m deep below the highest of the crater's ridges. The volcanic cone is surrounded by the sea, as a result most of it was eroded back to form high sea cliffs.

上山的路上有個觀景台，可以把整個Hanga Roa市中心盡收眼底，對，復活節島的市區就只是這麼大。

There is a mirador (view point) on the way up the mountain that offers a panoramic view of the entire Hanga Roa, yes, the urban area of ​​Easter Island is only this small.

在火山的背後，島的盡頭，有一條村落叫Orongo。Orongo 是一個石頭建造的村莊，位於Rano Kau火山的邊緣，由一些很矮的、被草皮覆蓋的、沒有窗戶的圓形房屋組成，當地語稱作“kehu”。它位於位於海洋和火山之間那條300米高的山脊懸崖上，而房屋的造型有助於抵禦火山頂部的強風。Orongo以一年一度的“鳥人”比賽而聞名。每年，島上各氏族的代表都會參加這個鳥人比賽，他們會從300米的懸崖壁上攀緣下來，游到名為Motu Nui的小島，從manutara鳥巢上取回一隻新下的蛋，然後遊回來，再次爬上懸崖。獲勝者被稱為鳥人，而他的氏族領袖將會取得王冠，成為國王一年，直到下一次鳥人比賽。不少族長會親自參加比賽以展示自己的實力。然而，大多數參賽者死於鯊魚、跌倒或其他危險。

Behind the volcano, at the end of the island, there is a village called Orongo. Orongo is a stone village located on the brink of the volcano Rano Kau, consisting of some low, sod-covered, windowless, round-walled houses called "kehu". It is on a barren cliff of 300m tall, between the ocean and a deep crater. The built of the houses help to survive the strong winds at the top of the volcano. Orongo is famous for the annual "birdman" competitions. Each year, a representative of each clan on the island would enter this birdman competition, in which they would descend the 300m cliff wall, swim out to the small islet called Motu Nui, retrieve a newly put egg from the manutara bird, swim back and climb up the cliff again. The winner would be the birdman and would win the crown for the leader of his clan, who would then be the king for a year until the next birdman competition. Many leaders of clans actually participate in the competition themselves to demonstrate their capability. However most competitors died from sharks, falls or other dangers.

從Orongo下來，我們參觀了山腳的一個名叫Ana Kai Tangata的海洞，該洞穴是由被海洋侵蝕的火山岩構成的，並因洞頂的岩畫而聞名，畫中的燕鷗是一種被 Tangata manu 崇拜者視為神聖的鳥類。

Coming down from Orongo, we visited a sea cave at the bottom of Rano Kau, named Ana Kai Tangata. The cave is made of volcanic rock that had been eroded away by the ocean. It is famous for the rock art on its ceiling of terns, a kind of birds that was considered sacred by the followers of the cult of Tangata manu.

前往下一個景點的路上，遇上一個單獨的摩艾石像, 名叫Ahu Huri A Urenga。大部份石像都在海邊，但這石像卻在島中央孤伶伶地站在路旁，它的腦袋已被侵蝕得只剩面容，但最特別之處在於它有四隻手，大家看到嗎(在肚腩附近)？

On our way to the next attraction, we encounter a single moai named Ahu Huri A Urenga. Most of the moai we saw were by the sea, but this one is standing alone by the road in the middle of the island. Its head has been eroded and only the face left, but the most special thing is that it has four hands. Can you find them next to its belly.

下一站是Puna a Pau。它島南部中央的一個小火山口，後來成為了採石場。這裏出名之處在於它是唯一一處出產用來雕刻紅帽子pukao的火山渣的地方。

The next stop is Puna a Pau. It is small crater located in the middle of the south side of the island. It was a prehistoric quarry and was very well known because it was the sole source of the red scoria that the prehistoric Rapanui used to carve the pukao.

我們繼續向北，到了 Ahu A Kivi。 Ahu Akivi 有七個石像，與 Ahu Tongariki 不同的是，這七個石像 在形狀和大小上幾乎都相同。Ahu Akivi 是島上特別神聖的地。與其他 ahu 不同，它們離海岸很遠。島上其他摩艾石像全都是面向內陸, 以保護族人的土地, 只有它們面向大海, 有說是當地人以它們對抗大海, 保護航海的人。它們建在一個非常特殊的方向上，因此它們在春分時正對日落，在秋分時背對日出。也有傳說這是七個由Hotu Matu國王派來的使者。

We continued north to reach Ahu A Kivi. Ahu Akivi has seven moai, unlike at Ahu Tongariki, these seven moai are pretty much all equal in shape and size. Ahu Akivi is a particular sacred one on the island for a number of reasons. They are located quite far from the coast unlike the other ahu. They face the sea as opposed to other moai which face the inland village as a protective mana. They are built at a very special direction such that they exactly face sunset during the Spring Equinox and have their backs to the sunrise during the Autumn Equinox. Some said the local people made them to propitiate the sea and help the navigators. Legend said these are 7 scouts sent by the King Hotu Matu to find the island.

我們沿路開車到了海邊，那裏有島上最大的洞穴。當復活節島因火山噴而形成的時候，這些熔岩通道也隨之而形成。這個地方的名字叫Ana Te Pahu，在當地語言中是“鼓的洞穴”的意思。因為在這裏發現了石爐，所以知道古代居民住在這些洞穴裡。一些熔岩層已經坍塌，露出了洞穴。那就是我們進入洞穴的入口。

We followed the path until we reached the coast, where the largest cavern on the island were located. Lava channels were created by the volcanic eruptions that gave rise to Easter Island. The name of this place, Ana Te Pahu, meant “the cave of the drum“ in local language. The ancient inhabitants lived in these caves, as stone ovens were found. Some of the lava layer have collapsed, exposing the cave. That's where we enter the caves.

然後我們在海邊的 Tataku Vave 餐廳晚餐。龍蝦和吞拿魚（當地語言為“kahi”）是島上的兩種新鮮海產，屬於必吃。 Curanto是一道傳統菜餚，包括貝殼類海鮮、肉、薯類和蔬菜。傳統造法是把食材放到地上的洞裏，上面覆蓋著香蕉葉，用柴火和燒紅的石頭煮熟的。 Rapanui ceviche是另一道非常有名的菜式。把生的吞魚切成小粒，加上檸檬和ají（辣椒）。這兩道菜就是我們的晚餐，當然還附送無敵海景！

We then got dinner at Tataku Vave restaurant right at the coast. Lobster and tuna ("kahi" in local language) are the two fresh products on the island and thus are must try. Curanto is a traditional dish consist shellfish, meat, potatoes, milcao and vegtables. Traditionally, the ingredients were cooked in a hole in the ground with firewood and red-hot stones, covered with banana leaves. Rapanui ceviche is another very famous dish. Tuna is served raw and cut into small pieces, dressed with lemon and ají (chili). These two dishes were exactly what we got for dinner, and the sea view made our day!